Government bulletin titled "How to make mask for prevention of influenza". Depicts drawing of man (from neck up) wearing a mask, and the mask itself to the right. Instructions are provided in the text below.

Stylish and Safe

This article continues the Heritage at Home series, originally launched in the Spring as a limited series, and offered during a time when we dealt with cancelled onsite programs and COVID-19 restrictions. The response was positive, with some lovely and heartfelt comments shared with us, so we’ve decided to periodically showcase even more stories that inform, challenge, amuse or bemuse. Check back often.

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By Adam Ahrens and Mnawaate Gordon-Corbiere, September 3, 2020

Black and white photo of a group of people in early-20th century clothing posing for a photo inside a building with a tall ceiling. Everyone in the photo is wearing a face mask.

Masks of the Past

From 1918 to 1920, when Torontonians were literally plagued by the Spanish Flu, every measure was taken in an attempt to stop the pandemic from spreading.

In those times one could often find the now all too familiar sites of empty streets, closed buildings that once hosted large gatherings, and an encouragement for all those going outside their homes to wear a mask.

The pressure to put on a mask was everywhere. Newspaper articles promoted the opinions of health experts to wear masks, department stores advertised where one could purchase a mask if they weren’t already able to make a home made one, and because it was discovered that less men than women were wearing masks because it wasn’t seen as the ‘manly’ thing to do, propaganda posters were distributed to promote wearing a mask as an act of patriotism.

Masks back then were commonly made from multiple layers of either cheesecloth, cambric and/or gauze.

Woman wearing mask holds papers in her right hand while gesturing with her left. In background, a park sign is barely visible as well as some trees and shrubs.

Mandatory Mask Bylaws

Mandatory Mask Bylaws

At the start of July the Toronto government made it mandatory to wear a mask or face covering in inclosed public spaces. Businesses have been asked to adopt mandatory mask policy, meaning that if people want groceries they’ll need a mask. Of course it’s not just the bylaws that are enforcing a mask culture in the city. School curriculums in the coming academic year are said to include proper COVID-19 health and safety.

But while about 70% of people in all of Ontario support mandatory mask laws, there is still controversy around them. For some wearing a mask is simply uncomfortable, for others it’s the belief that masks are ultimately ineffective in stopping the spread, and then there are those that just aren’t concerned with the possibility of catching COVID-19.

While there is some dissent around masks, the majority of Torontonians want to do their part in keeping each other safe, and people have found a new form of self-expression in the process.

Jean Grant Toronto Star, August 7, 2020

A Recent Fashion Trend

That’s right, masks have become a new form of fashion and expression – not just for kids, but for adults too.

One is not tied to the standard pandemic mask. There are masks made of varying types of materials like denim, plastic and even some sporting metal nose pieces. People have also found great ways to improve on the functionality of masks; some have filters built in, some have little openings for drinking straws, and others sport a more comfortable design in the way they cover over the face and neck. Then there’s the visual designs – animal prints, team logos, cartoon characters and so much more. Whatever you need, there’s likely a mask for it.

This demand for fashionable masks is also what has saved many Canadian designers. Repurposing fabric production from clothing to masks has kept many afloat financially since quarantine was first put into place. Additionally it has also helped some small name designers gain more brand awareness, setting them up for future business after the age of COVID has ended.

Black and white image of Indigenous people engaged in a pow wow dance, wearing ceremonial attire and headdresses.

Creative Culture

For Indigenous peoples, masks have taken on much more than a simple aesthetic or utilitarian appeal.

Many people of Indigenous communities have turned to local mask makers in order to support Indigenous businesses and express their cultural heritage. Indigenous art styles like Woodland, Northwest Coast, and Navajo have been adapted into the fabric designs of their masks, many of which trace their origins in oral tradition depicting spirituality, lineage, or stories passed down through generations.

Some mask makers have used flag designs like the Kahnawake Warrior Society flag, which has been a symbol of identity and resistance since the Oka Crisis in 1990. Others have used the Haudenosaunee Confederacy flag that draws its design from the Hiawatha wampum belt, which mnemonically records the formation of the League of Five Nations: Kanien’kehá:ka, Onondaga, Onyota’a:ka, Gayogohó:no’, and Onödowa’ga:. (Skarù:rę were later added as the sixth nation in the 1700s.) The belt depicts the Five Nations connected with the Onondaga at the centre as the Keepers of the Central Fire. The alliance has continued strong since the creation of the belt, thus the design is an expression of sovereignty.

Beyond art styles, Indigenous culture is also expressed in face masks through Indigenous sewing techniques. Some mask makers have utilized beadwork – a meticulous craft that has evolved through the centuries. Others have incorporated ribbons, which feature prominently in ceremonial wear and pow wow regalia.

Both wearers and creators have found masks to be an important source of self-expression lately. For many Indigenous peoples, masks have become a way to stay connected to Indigenous culture when cultural events have been cancelled.

Photo of various colourful face masks with traditional Indigenous designs sitting on a table. In the centre of the group of masks sits a white and brown large feather.

Masks for a Cause

Just as some companies have used face masks as a way to advertise products, Indigenous peoples have begun using them to bring attention to important issues.

Beyond self-expression, many Indigenous activists have seen wearing masks as a chance to raise funds for charity, and spread awareness of Indigenous causes. Many community members have sought out masks with red handprints on them – a symbol of missing and murdered Indigenous women, girls and two-spirited people. Though Indigenous women make up a small portion of the population, they are disproportionately affected by violence. A National Inquiry into Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls completed in 2019 found that there was no way to positively determine the amount due to many cases going unreported though estimates are in the thousands. The inquiry found colonialism had a major effect, specifically colonial violence and gender oppression.

Many Indigenous people understand MMIW to be an ongoing issue and want to help in as many ways as they can, including through face masks. Wearing these masks helps spread awareness and is a way of protesting colonial structures that have caused this tragedy. Red handprints show honour to the victims and are a symbol of solidarity, resistance, and resilience.

In this way the masks have multiple purposes, they keep the wearer and those around them safe from viral transmission, express the unique Indigenous identity and spread a message of awareness around MMIW.

Sources